Monday, March 23, 2009

Fear & Loathing in Costa Rica

4:30am is an ungodly hour even for a loud howler monkey, expect when you're in La Fortuna. Even in a groggy state, I take a quick inventory of my surrounding and produce a handful of stones large enough to make a monkey think twice about returning the next morning. So I do the only thing I can do, throw a stone at the beast in hopes that it'll either leave or succumb to whatever injures I may inflict with my haphazard throws. Fortunately for the monkey, my one armed assault barely made it past the treeline. I swear the monkey was laughing the whole time.

Regardless, the morning air is crisp and the smell of volcanic ash is just barely noticeable, but strong enough to make you want a cup of coffee. The pots on the back terrace, so I mosey on over and brew myself a cup to start the morning.The pot will take a while, so i grab my camera and snap a shot of the morning sun cracking over the horizon. Barely a cloud in the sky and no one else around, expect for the monkey grinning in the distant trees. Arenal's mouth is visible in the morning sky, a treat considering the humidity usually keeps the top shrouded in a veil of cloud cover. Considering the fact I can hear hot magma rumbling inside Arenal, I feel an odd sense of peace and relaxation. However I have no fear, as my cabin is constructed of the finest three-quarter inch wood Costa Rican money can buy. That and the fact my truck is facing downhill and if need be I can make short work of whatever separates me from the nearest road. Luckily my off-roading skills won't be needed today.

After my morning coffee and a taste of tobaco-puro, I take a shower and head over to Mirador for some breakfast, which consists of the traditional gallo pinto, fried plantains, scrambled eggs and some fruit. Don't get me wrong, the Mirador offers a great selection of food, however when prepping for an afternoon full of sun, cigars & frescos the last thing I need is an injection of a high fat western-style breakfast. Afterwards I take the truck into town to stock up on fruit and water for the rest of the day. Arenal looks all to surreal in the early morning. The cloud cover has moved in to cloak the mouth of the might giant; yet Fortuna is eerily calm in the shadow of Arenal. The town's comprised of only a few streets which lead to the park in the town square. W alking around town square, there's a motley assortment of backpackers, local merchants, children in school uniforms and a bunch of guys that look like extras from a Larry Bishop movie.

Nevertheless it's a nice place to call home for a few days until I make my way to Jaco beach on the Pacific coast.